If you don't already know it, the first step is to find out your USDA Growing Zone. The growing zones are divided by the average coldest temperature each location can expect; every plant has a limit to how cold it can get before the roots die off. Keep in mind, if you're going to be maintaining a potted garden, these will be less insulated from extreme weather than in-ground plants, so you might even choose plants suitable for the next-coldest zone to yours (or plan to insulate your plants over winter).

Click here to access the USDA's interactive map to enter your zip code and determine your Zone.

Some plants thrive in shade and die in full sunlight. Other plants die in shade and thrive in full sunlight. The next step is to decide how much light falls on your selected spot during each day in the late spring and summer months when your plants will likely be most active.  Here's a description of requirements.

Keep in mind that most deciduous trees (which drop their leaves in winter) will take time to "leaf out" in spring; this means if you are planting early spring flowering bulbs (like crocus, for example) under a deciduous tree, they technically will be in full sun while the tree above them is dormant or budding.

Generally speaking, the south side of a home will receive the most sunlight while the north side will receive the least. This of course depends on what obstructions are nearby, such as other buildings or structures, mountains, evergreen trees, etc. 

If you're not sure, take some popsicle sticks and a marker, and observe your planting spot on one of your days off. Draw a sun on one side and an "X" on the other of your popsicle sticks. Track shadows and shade as they move across your planting area by placing a stick at the edge of where sunlight falls in the morning, with the "X" facing the shady side, and then place a new stick every two hours to see where the edge of the brightest light falls as the day progresses. These lines will shift slightly with the seasons.

If you'll be planting a balcony, raised bed, or rooftop garden and will be manually watering, then you'll be responsible for creating the best water conditions for your plants, likely with a little help from mother nature. If you'll be putting your plants in the ground, then it's important to observe the general water characteristics of your plot site.

For example, an area directly next to your gutter downspout may tend to stay wetter longer than an area at the back of your yard. Is there a creek or standing water nearby your plot, or does the area tend to be dry and barren (that's ok, some plants like it) without your help ? Is your plot on a slope? The bottom of a slope may tend to be wetter, while the top of a slope may tend to be drier. 

Will you be able to manually water or run a drip irrigation hose through the area for the first year as your plants get established? It's important to plant perennials with water requirements suited to the site, however; you'll need to provide additional water to many plants during the first year while they establish a wider root system that will help them survive as seasoned adults. 

The Pollinator Partnership is a "non-profit 501(c)3 organization-- the largest in the world dedicated exclusively to the protection and promotion of pollinators and their ecosystems." They offer regional guides to help you plant beneficial species for pollinators. Though not as detailed as the Plot Plans offered by The Bee Beacon, these free guides are simple, beautiful, and informative. 

The Ladybird Johnson Wildflower Center also provides lists of native species by State and by purpose. This is another important place to find reliable lists of native species to plant that will benefit the wildlife in your area, and the collection titled "Special Value to Native Bees" was one important resource for TheBeeBeacon Pollinator Plot Plans.